I don’t know about you, but my favourite aspect of a good roast dinner, besides all the ancillary implications of communion, is the mixing and matching. I like to cut everything up and then use my fork to skewer ingredients together, dunking them into gravy, mint, horseradish, or apple sauce (just to name a few) to make each forkful a flavourful texture bomb. With all the fundamental components of meat, vegetables, Yorkshire puddings, and sauces laid to be reached for on the table, or served to you in a large platter, each combination becoming either an exercise in adventure, a craved homecoming, and/or a nostalgic awakening.
This is why the Yorkshire Burrito, a behemoth Yorkshire pudding wrap with all the vital elements of a roast dinner tucked in, represents that bite of familiar goodness that you only tend to get on special Sundays or celebratory occasions. You are given a choice between pork, beef, chicken, and cauliflower cheese, each precooked and ready for your order, and then made to watch as juicy meat is topped over a base of fresh kale or spinach and crunchy chunks of roast potato. You get your pick of the traditional sauces and a necessary shot of gravy, but despite not having the diversity you are used to in terms of veggies, the wrap is the perfect slice of moderately stodgy heaven in the moribund London weather.
If I am to be completely forthcoming, the wraps in themselves are not the best you’ll ever have. If I had to choose between an actual roast dinner and one of these wraps, there would be no contest. But what the Yorkshire burrito does is provide you that proverbial ‘slice of heaven’ that transcends a quantifiable assessment of its flavours and character. The wrap is hearty and satisfying, reminding you that is about time you called your mum and organised a family gettogether.
If someone asked for a bite that best represented Britain, you could do far worse than to recommend these patriotic burritos down by the Street Food Union.
Rupert Street, Soho, London, W1D 7PQ
Pork £7.50; Beef £8.00; Chicken £7.50; Vegetarian £7; Sides £3.00-£3.50